Humans have learned to utilize phytochemicals in the form of plant extracts as dyes for hundreds of years. Although our modern technology can now explain the production of these natural plant dyes at the molecular level, ancient communities strongly associate them with their culture and heritage.
In Japan, purple is a color with strong cultural significance. In dyeing their textile, the ancient Japanese used the extract of a native gromwell plant known as Murasaki. Unfortunately, this plant is currently facing the threat of extinction.
Reviving the Vibrant Purple Color
The reduction in the population of the Murasaki plant is attributed to the disease brought by the cucumber mosaic virus and the sudden changes in the environment. Cross-breeding with non-native plants, such as the European species L officinale, contributes to the threat.
As Murasaki plays a significant role in preserving Japanese culture, a group of researchers works together to raise awareness about the importance of this gromwell plant—recovery initiative programs such as the Mitaka Gromwell Restoration Project focus on ensuring the survival of Murasaki. According to research lead author Kazufumi Yazaki, non-profit organizations involved in revival programs also work with plant scientists to preserve the silk staining technique.
However, efforts to grow purple gromwell for the protection of cultural heritage is affected by plant biology since this species is susceptible to natural enemies. In response, experts call for creating a protection system that will focus on biological, chemical, and cultural controls against pathogens and parasites.
According to Mitaka Gromwell Restoration Project representative Manabu Nishimura, "Scientific approaches are always useful to help verify that our techniques are suitable for propagating L. erythrorhizon. We would like to compare both traditional and modern techniques to find better ways of growing L. erythrorhizon for the benefit of the community."
Nishimura and his team aim to conserve the heritage of using Murasaki for everyone's benefit. To make this possible, they hold regular classes about the traditional techniques in dyeing Japanese silk fabrics using the roots of purple gromwell.
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Cultural Significance of Murasaki Plant
Also known as purple gromwell, Murasaki (Lithospermum erythrorhizon) is one of the most beloved plants in Japan. It is tightly connected to Japan's rich history and tradition and other East Asian countries such as China and Korea.
In Japan, the word Murasaki describes the purple color and the plant itself. Due to its plant pigment, the roots of Murasaki are traditionally used as a natural purple dye.
Murasaki also has medicinal value due to its metabolite substance known as shikonins. Ancient Japanese prescribed the roots as an ointment called Shi-Un-Koh as a remedy for hemorrhoids, frostbite, and other wounds.
During the Asuka Dynasty, a rank system was established in the ancient Imperial Court where a color cap identified each title. The cap for the highest rank has dark purple color taken from the natural dye. Aside from government officials, only the highest-ranking Buddhist monks and members of the Imperial Family were allowed to wear clothes stained purple. Work toil in cultivating Murasaki also became part of the tax system, while the harvested roots were used in paying tax.
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